Category Archives: Vietnam 24

Mekong Delta – colors as far as one can see

Our last stop in Vietnam takes us by plane from Hue back to Ho Chi Minh City and then by bus to Can Tho in the middle of the Mekong Delta. Although the plane is a little late, the bus only takes 2.5 hours instead of the advertised 4 hours.

There isn’t much going on in Can Tho itself, which is why we only stay one night. But here, too, you can tell that everyone is busy preparing for the Vietnamese New Year. The city is dotted with countless strings of LED lights, the main street is brightly lit and somewhat reminiscent of the hustle and bustle of a metropolis. Conversely, many restaurants and stores are already closed for the vacation around the “turn of the year”.

This is also confirmed by our guide, who picks us up from the hostel at 4am the next morning to take us to our boat for an excursion on the Mekong. According to Clara, this is the last or penultimate day to do a meaningful tour on the river, after which there would be nothing going on for around a week. And that would be a great pity, because in addition to the many vegetable, fruit and rice plantations, we particularly want to visit the floating markets.

When we arrive at the boat, we are greeted by our boat driver and discover her 7-8-year-old granddaughter sleeping under a wooden bench on the boat. The trip to the first market takes around 1.5 hours and we enjoy the peace and quiet on the river and the slow gray of the morning before arriving at the market almost at sunrise. Unfortunately, the market is a little less busy than we had hoped, but the hustle and bustle is still exciting to watch. Our captain in particular jumps straight into the action and buys a whole bag of blood oranges from a farmer for the equivalent of 30 cents (and of course we also get a slice later Smile ). We are most impressed by a busy elderly lady who is bubbling a huge pot of soup on her small wooden boat and selling Vietnamese breakfast (noodle soup) to the tourists. As boats keep passing by, sometimes causing large waves, we wonder how often she or the pot has gone overboard during the maneuvers Winking smile

We continue to a flower market, where the yellow or orange marigolds popular for New Year’s are sold – here too, our captain strikes directly with 5 plants. The flowers are yellow or orange and are just as popular at New Year as the kumquat trees, as they promise money and success for the following year! Our next stop takes us through a small side channel of the river and you almost feel like you’re in the jungle. The destination is a farm for dragonfruit, we see the different stages of the plant and of course get to taste a fruit. The tour is really a food tour in disguise Smile

We walk to the next stop through a small village by the river while Clara introduces us to the history, life and traditions of the locals. After a 10-minute walk, we reach a small cocoa plantation – yes, there is one here – which is run by a 78-year-old farmer. It is the only farm still in existence in the Mekong Delta and produces around 2 tons of cocoa beans for the international market. Not exactly a lot, but apparently enough to reserve another tonne for tourism. We are allowed to see and of course taste all stages of cocoa production!!!

For the last stop on the tour – a rice noodle factory – we take another short boat trip. Here we learn how rice flour and water are first briefly fried into 80 cm diameter rice sheets, then dried for several hours and finally cut into fine rice noodles. We also get a “rice noodle pizza” to eat on the way! On the way back to the hotel, we drive through another, much larger floating market. The boats here are larger and loaded with huge quantities of goods. It’s like a wholesale market on the water. This is where the traders living on the boats come to sell the goods they have bought from the farmers. Back at the hotel, we say goodbye to Clara and receive a small New Year’s gift – an envelope with freshly printed money, which also brings luck and success in the coming year – which we are told to open on New Year’s Day.

We put our feet up for a moment, eat our rice noodle pizza and then head back to the bus to Ho Chi Minh City, where we spend our last evening in Vietnam. We have an appointment with the brother of Tobi’s colleague, who provides us with one dish after another – and lots of beer – in a night market that has been cleared of tourists. As we have to get up early for the flight to Borneo, we say goodbye before the evening escalates too much and get ready for the Borneo adventure…

Hue – monestry in a kaiser’s city

In addition to the old imperial citadel, the imperial city of Hue also has several imperial tombs and memorials and one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in Southeast Asia.

We start with one of the several tombs of the old imperial dynasty “Lang Tu Duc” of the ruler of the same name, just outside the city center. Here are tombs in honor of the emperor, as well as the tombs of his first wife, his successor, a memorial for his concubines and a temple in a huge and beautiful park. The tomb of the emperor himself is not here and was kept secret as he wanted to protect himself from grave robbers. This went so far that the slaves who carried him to the tomb and buried him were beheaded on their return… Surprised smile

The temple and monastery “Ni Xa Dieu Tram” of the Buddhist order “Plum Village”, which also runs monasteries around the world (also in Germany and France under the name European Institute of Applied Buddhism), is just a few minutes’ walk from the burial site. Here we meet up with Thanh Minh, a nun at the monastery and the sister of Cuong, a former colleague of Tobi. After a coconut and fruit and some shy introductions, the mood quickly thaws and she and another nun show us around the monastery and explain some of the traditions and teachings of the order. Afterwards, the three of us go to a park above the Perfume River and enjoy the evening atmosphere and the sunset with more fruit that Thanh has brought with her. But that’s not enough, she really wants to take us out for a “typical Hue meal”, which is why we call a cab and drive into the city together to a restaurant that we would never have found on our own (and of course we don’t have to explain the vegan food to Thanh Winking smile)

While Thanh says goodbye and drives back to the monastery, we enjoy a walk past the old imperial citadel and the festive market atmosphere just before the Vietnamese New Year. There are numerous food stalls, lanterns and even a kind of talent show – although the performances look a little amateurish Smile

The next day we visit the real highlight of Hue, the old citadel of the imperial city. The imperial family lived here until the early 20th century. Unfortunately, the Vietnamese fighters also entrenched themselves here during the Vietnam War, which is why the citadel was heavily bombed by the Americans. We therefore see a lot of rubble and ruins, but some of the most important buildings have been extensively restored or even completely rebuilt. So it is definitely worth a visit.

After a relaxing afternoon in a café and a nice bar, the next morning we take the plane back to Ho Chi Minh and continue by bus directly to the Mekong Delta…

Hoi An – and suddenly mass tourism

The 17-hour train journey is quite unspectacular. We sit undisturbed in a seat compartment until it gets dark and then move into the sleeping compartment for the night, which we share with two Vietnamese men and their son. The “beds” are designed more for smaller people, but are still okay, just a bit hard in typical Asian fashion Smile. Unfortunately, Kerstin almost doesn’t sleep, so we arrive relatively tired at 5:20 am at the train station near the port city of Hoi An and take a cab to the hostel. Despite our early arrival, we are kind enough to check in straight away and get an extra 2 hours of sleep!!!

Hoi An is known as a former port city in the middle of Vietnam near the imperial city of Hue, but was “forgotten” in the 20th century, which is why it suffered virtually no damage during the Vietnam War. As a result, the old town still exists and is an exciting mix of cultures from Vietnam, China and Japan. During a city tour, we learn to distinguish between the different architectural styles, but we are particularly impressed by the thousands of lanterns in the city. Dozens of white, colorful, patterned and painted lanterns hang from every house and the whole city is bathed in a sea of color. Of course, this becomes even more impressive as night falls!!!

We also thought of something new. Hoi An is considered a kind of culinary capital of Vietnam, so we book a vegan street food tour through the old town. We are not disappointed!!! Our guide treats us to ten small and large dishes at seven different locations. From banh mi at a street snack bar to various sweet and savory snacks at the old market square,  a traditional Chinese house where dumplings are still made by hand – which we also try out ourselves – to a classic restaurant with the rice noodles typical here, almost everything is included.

The next day we take a scooter again, explore the ruins of My Son, which were unfortunately badly damaged in the Vietnam War, spend the afternoon on the beach and the evening on a ride through the nearby rice fields. We also stroll along the river, which is also lit up at night with lanterns on small boats and lined with (sometimes extremely loud) bars.

After a “short” 3-hour bus ride the next morning, we reach the old imperial city of Hue…

Mui Ne – Sand dunes in Vietnam???

Sand dunes in Vietnam? Never heard of them? Neither had we, so we thought we had to see it. It also came in handy as a stopover between Ho Chi Minh and central Vietnam with the lantern city of Hoi An  and the imperial city of Hue – both of which we really wanted to see. We also really wanted to try out the legendary train route from Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, even if only on part of the route. No sooner said than done, we book a train to Mui Ne and two nights later the 17-hour overnight train from Mui Ne to Hoi An Surprised smile

The train journey to Mui Ne is only around four hours and after a subsequent one-hour cab ride, we arrive in the small fishing village of Mui Ne. As it is already late afternoon, we head straight to the nearby dunes to enjoy the sunset. Even if it can’t be compared to the dunes in Namibia or Peru, there is always something magical about sand dunes and the setting sun. In the dark, we wander around the small town for a while, as the vegan restaurant we were looking for has unfortunately closed spontaneously. After several attempts, we give up and let ourselves be driven to a nearby stretch of beach, where there are several hostels and hotels, and we find what we are looking for right on the beach promenade. Unfortunately, you can tell that it’s more of a tourist restaurant, it tastes a bit bland than we’re used to…

The next morning we take a scooter and explore the coast. We were particularly taken with the “white” dunes around 25 km away. However, shortly after setting off, we are stopped by two policemen on a motorcycle, asked for our international driving licenses – which we have of course forgotten at the hotel – and escorted to the nearest police station. Of course, we have the wrong driving licenses for the scooters commonly used in Vietnam anyway, so let’s see what awaits us…

The police station turns out to be a small hut next to a school and the obvious superior of the two policemen tries to convince us via a translation app how dangerous it is to drive on Vietnam’s roads and that there are always accidents involving tourists who don’t know the “rules of the road” in Vietnam. We play dumb and wait to see what he is actually getting at. And as expected, he offers us a benevolent “compromise”. We should just pay a fine of around €15 and then we can continue driving for the rest of the day without any worries. Of course, we don’t get a ticket or quitting, the €15 goes straight into his pocket and he kindly uploads a photo of our license plate to the police system (presumably a WhatsApp group… Open-mouthed smile ), then nobody would bother us anymore… Yeah, sure, but what can you do.

Whether it’s the great police system or just luck, we have no more contact with the police for the rest of the day, drive to and walk through the white dunes. We also spend the afternoon on the beach and visit the vegan restaurant in the evening, which was closed the day before (simply delicious!!!). We round off the evening with a beer and “fried ice cream” and set off the next day after breakfast on the 17-hour train journey to Hoi An….

Ho Chi Minh – Back to southeast asian “chaos”

Somehow we’ve been so busy with other parts of the world since the Covid era that we’ve somewhat “neglected” Southeast Asia. We wanted to change that and set off for Southeast Asia again, or to be more precise, we set our sights on the island of Borneo. But as we have four weeks to spare, we wanted to finally get to know the south of Vietnam! No sooner said than done, we look for a flight route to Ho Chi Minh City – the capital of Vietnam – via Borneo to Singapore and back to Munich…

We arrive in Ho Chi Minh on Saturday evening and throw ourselves into the city’s (touristy) nightlife. And what can we say, somehow we just missed the hustle and bustle, the endless flood of two-wheelers and the smell of street food floating around everywhere!

And so we just walk through the city, treat ourselves to a delicious vegan banh mi and end up in a street that should probably be described as an open-air DIsco! Music thunders from open bars/clubs and live bands, even more street food, dancers – and the occasional dancer – in front of the bars. The different styles of music, some of which don’t match at all, coupled with the volume and the crowds, create a positive chaos that you simply have to love!!!

After a beer on the roof terrace, our energy is used up and we go to our pretty room with a khoi pool on the balcony Smile and get a good night’s sleep…

The next day is filled with a bit of sightseeing, Vietnamese coffee and some planning for the rest of the trip. We stroll along the Saigon River, observe the preparations for the Vietnamese New Year festival “Tet”, which takes place in two weeks’ time, and visit the “Notre Dame de Saigon”, an old post office, the Vietnam War Museum and a temple. The museum in particular leaves a lasting impression with all the war damage, war crimes and their consequences.

After another night and street party, the next morning we take the train to Mui Ne, the sand dunes on the south coast of Vietnam…