Category Archives: Thailand

Bangkok – Ups, downs and a slightly weird place for re-union

We land in the middle of the night in Bangkok and therefore break with an unwritten rule for us and take us a taxi (or grave, the Asian variant of Uber) to the hotel. This will catch up with us the next few days more often, because the public transport in Bangkok is unusable for us in many parts. We really try everything out, buses (in which we do not see a single tourist), subways, the Syktrains, ferries, longtail boats and finally reach back to Grabs with a heavy heart. We actually wanted to try out tuk-tuks, but despite some attempts, we could not find a single driver who would not have cost at least twice (!!!) a tomb. This may have something to do with our somewhat unusual choice of location, but even if it is a bit annoying at first, but hindsight gives us the opportunity to experience exactly this side of Bangkok.

Even the tourist center of Bangkok does not manage to impress us. The famous Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are interesting but completely overcrowded and busses spewing dozens of Chinese tourists every minute. The most famous night market on Khao San Road is barely any better and we almost feel reminded of the debacle of Kuala Lumpur.

At the second look Bangkok thrilled us but still. Especially the more local markets, where hardly any tourists frolicking, have done to us and on one of them we treat ourselves to a great (but somewhat painful) Thai massage. But also the idyllic Lumphini Park with the living Waranen invites you to stroll and the longboat ride through the canals of the suburbs of Bangkok displaces our first impression. We also have a lot of fun on the ferry and above all watching the communication between the helmsman and the feeder (which moors the ship at the pier). The communication is based on a whistle. As far as we can tell, once whistling means “the rope is put on,” twice “reverse,” three times we did not quite understand, but sounded like some problem, e.g. “Too fast”, “too far away”, or something. Definitely super interesting to watch.

On our last evening we meet again with Markus and Gülden, which we met in Sumatra during jungle trekking. The two are also nearing the end of their journey and their last stop is also Bangkok. As a meeting place, we choose the Nana Plaza, the (supposedly) largest sex complex in the world. Quasi like a shopping center can be found on 3 floors around a courtyard brothels, peep shows and hour hotels. We drink a beer and watch the bustle amused, including a fight in the courtyard. Most impressive, however, is the capacity of the hour hotel we sit in front of. We constantly ask ourselves, how many rooms will probably have, because in 5-minute intervals new guests come and sometimes forms a queue in front of the reception.

On the last day we stroll over a smaller market near our hotel and then head to the airport. It takes a few days to get involved in the city, but now we look forward to returning to Bangkok.

Koh Phi Phi & Phuket – a storm is approaching

As already indicated, in Koh Lipe we decided to treat ourselves once more. We had been thinking about visiting Angkor Wat for a while and somehow it seemed like a nice change to the whole island before we left Bangkok. Accordingly, we booked for the 05.01. a flight from Phuket to Siem Reap, earlier would have been much too expensive due to the Christmas season. Now the question came to us as we bridge the two days off. The actual idea spontaneously to do a diving course in Koh Lanta, we (or mainly Tobi) had to give up very quickly, because spontaneously there was nothing due to the holiday season. Since Koh Lanta did not have so much to offer anymore, we decided to spend two more nights on the island of Koh Phi Phi, which is known as a party stronghold. Practically, that is practically exactly in the middle between Koh Lanta and Phuket.

Said, done – with the ferry we are from Koh Lanta in less than an hour on the island and made during the ferry even a really good deal for the onward journey to Phuket or to the local airport (that the bargain save us a lot of trouble Of course we would not have known at this point …). Koh Phi Phi reminds us a bit of Koh Lipe, if you are ready to hide the crowds of tourists a bit, you can definitely enjoy the island. It has beautiful and sometimes less frequented smaller beaches. In the evening, the little place but really transformed into a single party, but also here you can find with some persistence beautiful and local restaurants with great food.

On the second day we climb the two viewpoints with the unusual names “View Point 1” and “View Point 2” and hike to two remote beaches until we hear the news about the approaching tropical storm Pabuk and its effects on the ferry traffic to and from Phuket reached. Somehow we are attracting these natural disasters lately …

Unfortunately, it is already too late to catch the last ferry on this day. Therefore, we can only hope that the various tour operators with their statement “Big Ferry should be fine” right. Nevertheless, we decide to take the early ferry at 9:00 instead of 14:30 as scheduled. That should give us enough buffer for the flight the following morning at 6:00 o’clock …

And then we stand at 8:00 in the morning at the harbor and it comes as feared: a huge mass of tourists in long lines at the pier, everywhere employees with the same sentence “No ferry to Phuket today, only Krabi”. Oh great. Krabi is exactly in the opposite direction, almost next to Koh Lanta, where we just came from. But good, if we want to catch the flight the next morning, we have no choice and the employee sends us to the pier to exchange our ticket to Phuket directly with our ferry operator in one to Krabi. The nice lady regulates that also within 5 minutes completely uncomplicatedly and puts us on the ferry to Krabi at 10:30 o’clock. Although we do not get a new ticket, which seems weird, but it is not the first time that something happens to us. And if the processes are mostly (or actually always) completely opaque, works out in Asia, according to experience, what is promised and we just keep calm. We can not change anything now anyway.

So we have time to watch the sometimes abstruse scenes at the pier. One ferry at a time is packed with tourists and, in our opinion, completely overcrowded to Krabi. The first boat is actually at 9:00, but the first ferry leaves at 8:30, the second at 8:45 and it continues in 20-minute intervals. Employees are verbally abused because the 10:30 ferry is too late for their afternoon flight (“You’re fucking kidding me” is still one of the nicer phrases). It is shuffled and jostled to get on the next ferry, we feel a bit reminiscent of disaster movies. And we sit there waiting for us to get our tickets. It is already 9:15 clock, until the jetty slowly but surely begins to empty and we try again to get the nice lady our new tickets. So she tells us smoothly: Phuket is released, we should get on the next ferry. We can not quite believe it yet, but we make our way to the footbridge with a larger group of other people. First, we will not be left on the boat due to the non-existent ticket, but after a sprint back to the nice lady it means we get the ticket on the boat. When we are back, the “bouncer” disappeared without a trace.

After we have another three (!!!) times – including luggage – change the ferry, this actually sets (with only one hour delay) at 10:00 and goes to Phuket. At this time, the pier is deserted and at least 5-6 ferries to Krabi. So we are sitting on the only ferry to Phuket this morning and later we learn that from 14:00 clock all ferry service is set. As you can see again, patience pays off in the end. Smile

Once in Phuket, we take the first minibus directly to our hotel at the airport. The city itself is said to be full of tourists, we refrain from that, pass the afternoon rather in the nearby National Park on the beach and watch as the clouds are getting denser. Always in the hope that our flight can start the next morning, the storm is announced from the evening for Phuket. On our beach trip we are unexpectedly accompanied by a full slender beagle. As we walk on the main road at the airport, he meets us, turns around and then follows us on several (main) roads to the beach and later back again. Some amused looks are certain and even at dinner he does not get bored and he waits patiently for us. Shortly thereafter, we lose sight of him at a 7/11, but he really sweetened the afternoon for us.

Around midnight it starts to rain, but even if the way to the airport is a bit wet, our plane lifts off all worries at 6:00. The start is a bit bumpy, but not nearly as bad as the landing in “Irma” last year. 1 1/2 hours later we are already at the finish, Siem Reap or more precisely Angkor Wat. Let’s see if it was all the excitement Smile

Koh Lanta – Happy new year

Even though Koh Lipe is really beautiful, it gets boring relatively quickly – at least if you’re not busy with touring and diving all the time, which is why we were glad to come back to a bigger island. In addition, we had the turn of the year in the house and we were really curious how that will happen in Thailand.

After our arrival by ferry, it was about 20 minutes with a tuk-tuk to our hotel, where we had rented in a bamboo beach bungalow. Unfortunately we were so early that we had to wait about an hour with a coconut on the beach. Such a crap Smile And the manager of the hotel is just cute. Even for Thai standards, where it is really difficult to meet unsympathetic people, she was simply the absolute hammer. Her favorite phrase: “Relax at the beach, I call you when it’s ready”. You could have hugged her every time we asked her for anything, washing clothes, scooter rentals, boat bookings, or when she helped us out with Tobi’s lost credit card. The credit card has gone missing (presumably eaten by some ATM), but that was only half as bad in the end.

Koh Lanta itself we explored again with a rented scooter. The island has some beautiful, if not overly spectacular, beaches to offer. Therefore, our personal highlight was the visit of the mangrove forest in the east of the island. Not necessarily because of the mangroves, which we have admired in the meantime quite often, but because of the large number of crabs, which make themselves comfortable here and at low tide are great to watch. Some hermit crabs and the crayfish with only one, but huge scissors did it to us particularly. We even saw a short fight between two particularly large specimens! The national park Koh Lantas and its “Jungle Walk” is unfortunately very unspectacular, but you pay the entrance fee for nature conservation. Although it was late on the way back, we still wanted to make a short detour to a somewhat remote waterfall. We had to turn around after 20 minutes because otherwise we would not have made it out of the jungle before dark, but on the way we spotted a sleeping snake in a tree just a few meters away. A bit queasy at the thought that even sit directly over one (and fall in doubt) could Smile

And then there was still New Year’s Eve … We spent the evening (with incredibly loud music) in a beach bar, then smuggled us to the party of a resort at midnight to the quite remarkable, but compared to Germany very short, fireworks over the larger City of Koh Lantas. In addition to the fireworks, there is a steady stream of light balloons throughout the evening, which are now banned in Germany for good reason. It is impressive anyway! After this spectacle back in the bungalow, we enjoyed ourselves until early in the morning at the club music. The loudest beach club was right behind our bathroom party Party smile

In this sense, “Happy new year”

Koh Lipe – let the Christmas tourism begin

Do we want to go to Koh Lipe? This question caused us a little mixed feelings again. This is in favor of the unofficial title of the Maldives of Southeast Asia, on the other hand, the mass tourism initiated by the Thai government for several years. Actually, the small island of Koh Lipe (2 km long and 1 km wide) is part of the Tarutao National Park and protected accordingly, but the government decided to open the island for commercial tourism a few years ago. That and some travelogues + pictures have deterred us a bit, but ultimately we decided for lack of alternatives but for it. For the less touristy islands usually only accommodate one (and therefore expensive) resort, or cut rather poorly regarding beaches, which in this case was our main focus.

Accordingly, we took the ferry from Langkawi to Koh Lipe, which in itself tells a little adventure. First, the sea was really rough this time and therefore complained Kerstin’s stomach (original sound: A 90-minute roller coaster ride). In addition, Langkawi is Malaysian, therefore, all entry formalities for Thailand must be done directly on the beach of Koh Lipe, because there is a pier for a ferry on Koh Lipe and you are brought in “long tail” boats from the ferry to the beach. So that during the subsequent entry procedure no one (whether wanted or not) is “forgotten”, before the departure of the ferry, all passports are collected and then issued again directly before the passport control. Of course, it takes a while for around 70-100 people on the boat, and of course our passes were in the last pile. But we have time Smile

The island itself is – if you mentally set on crowds – actually beautiful and the beaches are really impressive and invite you to relax! Especially in the evening, the tourist core of the island, the so-called Walking Street, but transformed into a sea of ​​people. Here, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and diving schools line up and after the island is over after dark there is not much to do, all residents and tourists meet on this street. During the day, the crowds go to the island’s two main beaches or countless scuba diving and snorkelling tours, so we find the nights more fun than exhausting and just enjoy the beauty of the island. Also, we book for an afternoon in such a quite worthwhile snorkeling tour (Chabang, Koh Hin Ngam, Koh Adang), but if you are looking for secluded beaches and peace, will definitely disappointed.

But after three days we have enough on the beach and go to the next, this time again larger island Koh Lanta. In addition, we decide on Koh Lipe for a small change in our itinerary before the return flight from Bangkok, as a belated Christmas gift … But more on that later Winking smile