Category Archives: Yucatan

Palenque – two wonderful waterfalls, the last ruins and a looong way home

sorry, only google translate…

As we were not able to fly back to Cancun as originally planned, we had a different plan. From San Cristobal we booked a tour to the ruins in Palenque (about 5-6 hours drive), which also included the two waterfalls that we wanted to see. So we got into a minivan at four o’clock in the morning, and we drove to the first waterfall “Agua Azul”, where we were to arrive three hours later. Although the waterfall did not look like in the pictures in beautiful blue (it had just rained the days before too much), he is still (or just because of it) extremely impressive. And blue pools we had already seen in Semuc Champey :-)

Afterwards we went on to the waterfall “Misol Ha”, the highest waterfall of something (we can not remember exactly, probably it is the highest in the state of Chiapas). Also incredibly impressive, especially because you can walk behind the waterfall and walk in a small grotto, where another small waterfall including bats can be found.

In Palenque, we were then passed by the tour to look at the ruins of Palenque the next day. These were ushered on several sides as the most beautiful Mayan ruins on the peninsula. Like all the others, they are very impressive, but Tikal has been a little better in the jungle.

In the evening began the probably longest return journey of our previous “travel career”. At 17:15 we left the hotel to board the night bus to the airport to Cancun at 6pm. After about 12 hours we reached Playa del Carmen where we had 1 hour time for a small breakfast and then had to change to the bus to the airport. From Cancun it was then at 12 clock on the plane to Atlanta, where we should actually change into a plane to Munich. Unfortunately, the hurricane Irma made a dash for us. We had already been informed about his career for some time, which should not concern us, unless it would affect the flight operations in Atlanta and so it came unfortunately also:

Approximately 30 minutes before Atlanta, our pilot made a statement that due to Irma the wind speeds at the airport would be too high for a landing. However, as Irma did not go directly to Atlanta, we were expected to improve and our pilot decided to use the remaining kerosene to fly around Atlanta for half an hour before we had to drive an alternative airport. After about half an hour came the next announcement that the alternative airport was changed and we would have another 10 minutes to wait. A short time later the last announcement, it would look better and a few fliers would have already landed, so we dare now just a landing approach before we have to drive the alternative Charlotte. The American next to us was slowly but surely a nervous breakdown … It was then also the hardest landing we had experienced so far, the approach was strewn with air holes and just before the landing we stood noticeably in the wind, but it worked! What can you say, within 72 hours an earthquake and a hurricane experienced, not bad :-)

Unfortunately it should not go so well, because although at the beginning still our flight was (for the same reason as our flight) only two hours belated, we had to realize at the gate that our connecting flight had not reached Atlanta and we therefore have been diverted via Amsterdam. At least we were able to continue the same evening and even got $ 90 in the hand.

Also the flight to Amsterdam went then instead of at 8pm only at 11pm, as far as we have noticed this because of lack of ground staff by failures in the local traffic of Atlanta. But since we should have anyway 7 hours stay in Amsterdam, we were in this case relatively no preference and we enjoyed the food. The warnings of our pilot that this would be a very bumpy start (Irma was still raging), but then were a bit exaggerated, really bad was not the same. But maybe we were just too tired to get it. In Amsterdam, we were once again pressed for consumption (but this time läppische 20 €) and we waited relaxed for our flight and should arrive at 10 pm (finally) but unfortunately without luggage at home, after läppischen 45 hours: – D

San Cristobal – back to Mexico on shaky grounds

sorry, only google translate…

The trip from Lago Atitlan to San Cristobal was praised us with 7-9 hours. We started at 6:30 in the morning and we arrived at 21:00. Exceptionally this was not the result of an empty promise, but simply bad luck (paired with a proper portion of bad organization). We were driven to the border (took about 4 1/2 hours) and should change there to a minivan, which exactly the same journey from the other direction had made. This had but due to a truck accident almost 2 hours late and we had to wait. But instead of getting us to Mexico, including immigration, we were waiting in Guatemala. When the van finally came, it took another 30 minutes until the drivers had cleared everything, then we were allowed into the stateless zone and were driven 2 km to the border to Mexico, where all the immigration papers had to fill …

Well, we were then somehow there and related our very nice AirBnB and just fell dead tired to bed. The next day the tour of San Cristobal was on the program and we took part in a free-walking-tour, which showed us mostly bars, restaurants, cafes, but also through the huge labyrinth of the resident market. In addition, there was a coffee, nacho and schnaps tasting in between and all for a tip. Very good! In the evening we booked a tour for the next morning in the Canon Sumidero, but there should be something a dash through the bill.

We were already in bed, when Kerstin was suddenly awakened by a shaky bed, and Tobi first struck a blow, he should stop wiggling. Relatively quickly, however, it was clear to us that it was an earthquake and so we quickly slipped into a few clothes, searched our passports and went out into the courtyard. Probably by far the most stupid reaction to an earthquake, but from where we should know better. We just thought it would get worse if we got worse our passports with us. Outside, we also had medium-sized panic, our hosts bounced relatively wildly through the area and talked in Spanish. Tobi’s demand, whether this is “normal”, but was clearly denied. When it was over after about a minute and shortly thereafter again electricity and telephone network was present, a wild telephoning went on, in the background always a siren as one knows it with us only from films over the second world war in air raids. When the Internet went again, we were able to get a little bit of information and realized that the earthquake was one of the strongest 8.1 and had occurred in the Pacific near the Mexican coast, and it was just because of the strength up to us Mountains (at an altitude of 2000m). After an hour we are then also back to bed, but the constant siren due to numerous aftershocks (supposedly up to 50 only this night) made the sleep rather uncomfortable.

In hindsight one can only say, lucky and a very memorable experience …

The next day, our trip was canceled halfway through the effects of the earthquake and we spent the rest of the day sightseeing before the next morning at 4am we went to our last stop Palenque.

Lago Atitlan – birthday on the vulcano

sorry, only google translate…

After a 3 1/2 hour trip in the Chickenbus (should you have made time, but too long the route should not be), we were in Panajachel, the main starting point for the Lago Atitlan. We had quite a lot of thoughts, which volcano we would like to climb. After the volcanoes in Antigua could not really inspire us, we had already set ourselves on Santa Maria, an active volcano near Quetzeltenango (again 2 hours from Panajachel). In Panajachel, however, we had to realize that this route was about twice as expensive, as all the tour operators asked for the ride to Quetzeltenango about the same as for the drive to San Cristobal, where we wanted to go next. Say we would double the trip.

So we decided (again, you can not plan anything in advance). This was not really so bad, because the next day was Kerstin’s great day (I say only 30 * cough *) and so we wanted to spend the birthday on one of the volcanoes on the lake. More specifically, on Vulcano San Pedro (3050m), which is inactive but offers a great view of the lake and the volcano landscape of the Guatemalan highlands.

So at 8 o’clock in the morning, after an hour’s boat trip with the next breakfast, we climbed the remaining 1400 meters above the volcano. It was quite exhausting and Kerstin got a little problems with the altitude (felt like asthma), but the whole thing was definitely worth it. We also arrived at the right time, because about 10 minutes after we arrived, the clouds came for the lake from early afternoon and within a few minutes the whole view was covered. Some hikers who came back to us had probably not been so lucky …

When dropping down was also once again strange shame. We had already noticed two German girls in the morning (there was also a Mexican guy, we suspect he was a kind of private leader), who were already making fun of us in the boat. There is much more then also the already promising sentence: “I believe we are wrongly attracted, I did not even times socks”. By this time, we made three crosses that did not have the same leader on the volcano as we did. Half way down from the volcano, the two of us then came completely met and we had to really master not to laugh loudly. Well, sometimes it helps but the description of a tour to read :-)

Back in Panajachel we left the day with coffee and cake as well as a restaurant visit before the next day the next long bus trip across the border back to Mexico, more precisely San Cristobal waiting for us …

Antigua – colonial town surrounded by vulcanos

sorry, only google translate…

The ride from Lanquin to Antigua was by far the most unpleasant ride so far. No air conditioning, no turns and a slightly mad driver. In the middle of Guatemala City, which is due to the many chicken buses (old american school buses, which are converted as public transport) simply to Diesel stinks But somehow we arrived then and the city is really incredibly nicely framed by three volcanoes (two of them active).

The main reason for our visit were the volcanoes (we had heard here you can examine lava) and the colonial style of the city. After we heard that the volcano is currently inactive and accordingly no lava was present, we were content with the visit of the city. For the alternative 2-day trip to the other active volcano, we missed after the intermediate stop in Semuc Champey a little the time. We also had to make an unscheduled change because the flight we had taken from San Christobal back to Cancun was only bookable with a Mexican credit card and we would lose another day.

Therefore, we strolled through the city, through the huge labyrinth of the weekly market, to a viewpoint in the city and beat our stomach with delicious street food tacos :-)

On the following day we wanted to experience what it feels like to go with a chicken bus and took a similar stop to our next stop “Lago de Atitlan” (only 2 hours away).

Semuc Champey – looong drive, Off-Roading, Waterfalls and two Katalans

sorry, only google translate

We had Semuc Champey already before on the note, as it looked after a suitable intermediate stop between Flores and Antigua and we did not want to sit again 10 hours in a minivan. Well, sentence with X, was probably nothing. After a little more detailed research, we found a rather striking quotation: “If you want to visit Semuc Champey, you must plan at least 3 days. One for the journey, one for the national park and one for the departure. “That’s exactly how it was then. From Flores to Lanquin, the only sensible place to visit from Semuc Champey, it is an 8-hour drive. From there to Antigua – the next destination – it is again 8 hours. There is also a 1 hour drive from Lanquin to the national park. Therefore, the question arose to us, is it the value?

Well, what can we say, our opinion is a clear YES!

Alone the ride is an experience and we do not mean the boring five hours from Flores to Coban, the fun part comes afterwards. Then the “street” ceases and it goes down on a gravel road through middle of corn and coffee fields into the jungle. Arrived in Lanquin, first around 20 men spread their heads through the door in the minivan and wildly shout all the hotel names of the place. Here you are picked up from the hotel, however, however, you have to ask 20 times, in which hotel you want is still a mystery. Maybe some tourists spontaneously change their mind when another hotel has a more beautiful name?

Our hotel was a bit out of the way, right on the river and just super idyllic. We met a Catalan couple (Marta and Eduardo), who already sat with us on the bus at dinner (or the previous Mojito-Schlürfen).

The next morning we went with a so-called “bus” into the national park. But past the time with “cozy” minivans, we were simply to tenth on the loading area of ​​a pick-up truck and went off even deeper into the jungle, with even deeper sleepers, just super funny!

The waterfalls themselves are best described with the pictures, simply super idyllic and beautiful. Worth mentioning are actually only the fish, which live in the pools of the waterfall. Ever heard of the fact that many people in Asia pay money to put their feet in a water basin with fish, which nibble the cornea and give a velvety soft feet? Exactly the fishes are also here and hardly one puts one’s feet into the water, the feast is prepared and one is “eaten” by a swarm fish 🙂

After a few hours of walking and swimming, we went on another drive through the jungle back to the hotel and the next morning again 8 hours to Antigua!

Through Belize to Flores and Tikal

After crossing the border, we were in Belize. Originally, we planned to stay in Belize for a couple of days, but somehow we ran out of time and Belize was just a bit pricey. We also noticed this immediately, as we wanted to take a taxi to the bus station to get our connection to Guatemala. We paid in Mexico a few euros for several kilometers, it was here at once 15 USD for 10 minutes drive, but well, we had already saved the departure fee 🙂

After we arrived at the bus station, we inquired about the bus. According to our plan (and by the 1-hour time shift) we had actually at least 1 1/2 hours time. But the lady, who is responsible for the tickets, said we were in the wrong parking lot and the bus leaves in 2 minutes. Oops. So in the next taxi and to a hotel, where the bus supposedly hold. There, however, we inquired, only to learn that the bus would come in about 1 – 2 hours. Thanks for it … But well, at least we were now in the right place and the bus came then also quite punctually as indicated on the website. Firstly, everything else worked relatively smoothly, about 2 hours to Belize City to the port, there 30 minutes stay to collect the travelers from the boats, another 2 hours to the border to Guatemala, about 30 minutes for departure from Belize (this time with charges ) and 2 minutes for entry to Guatemala (without charges) and then another 2 1/2 hours to Flores. You can tell, long day and lots of time on the bus, but it should be worth it.

Arrived in Flores we first booked a shuttle to the ruins “Tikal”, which were the main reason for the whole driving company. The next morning we went at 4:30 (!) To Tikal in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle and that was the most interesting thing in the beginning. You wander through the jungle through long-weathered Maya streets and hear how this is slowly getting more and more active (we were finally already at 6:30 in the middle of the jungle). We also saw a few animals, especially a band of “spider monkeys”, which was amused in the trees. But above all, the noise level is simply wrong. Constant chirping, squealing and roar (unfortunately only brüllaffen, no jaguars). In addition, the leader of a group lured a tarantula from their hiding place before our eyes: -O

After walking for the first 1-2 hours through the jungle, we also visited the ruins, which are not only some of the highest, but also their appearance in the film “Apokalypto”. Simply fascinating, what the Maya had built up.

Around noon we had then also seen enough and took the next shuttle back to Tikal, where we spent the afternoon comfortably to drive the next morning to Semuc Champey.

Bacalar – almost couchsurfing

sorry, only google translate

After the longest (but very comfortable, which should still change …) bus ride of barely 5 hours, we arrived at our last destination in Mexico, Bacalar. Bacalar is known for the Laguna Bacalar, also known as “Lagoon of the 7 Colors”. But later on, we were picked up by our supernetten AirBnB Hosts Georgina (Mexican) and Andy (English) from the bus and transferred to their super nice house. Quasi inclusive were 4 chickens, 3 ducks, a Mexican squirrel and 4 cats, 3 of them only 6 weeks old 🙂

On the first day we chatted a little with our hosts, before we just relaxed with an ice-coffee in the lagoon, let the sun burn on the fur and after a refreshing bath in a hammock.

But now more to the lagoon. It is so called because the water here actually occurs in the most diverse blue tones. This is due to the different deep but incredibly clear water, on the other by several shallows, bays and cenotes. There are cenotes in the middle of the lagoon. The biggest difference is the water depth from 1.5m to 100m. Of course, we took a small chartered boat on the second day and we also swam in the cenote!

But before we did the boatstour on the second day, something happened, which has not yet happened to us. Tobi just came out of the water when a former fellow student from the bachelor came by chance. The world is just smaller than you think. With him, his girlfriend and his ride from Vancouver we chartered the boat.

In the evening, we informed ourselves about our planned transit through Belize to Guatemala and were a little bit surprised. Because when we wanted to book the bus, we were supposed to have 500 pesos (~ 25 €) for departure from Mexico, as well as 20 USD for entry and exit from Belize. I beg your pardon??? Georgina could not believe it and offered to smuggle us against the border. Sound funny and so we agreed.

Ok, fun aside, of course this should not be an illegal border crossing. Georgina simply said that the departure fee from Mexico was illegal and that she took us around the “free-zone” between Mexico and Belize around this fraud. And so it was then, we drove into the free zone, and actually the station stationed there wanted us also the 500 pesos abluchsen. But not with Georgina, after an approximately 20-minute discussion with the official and additionally his manageress, we arrived without payment. No idea how she did it, but it worked. And we did not have to pay the “entrance tax” to Belize, just the departure. But next time more 🙂

Mérida – collonial town and Dieter Bohlen

(sorry, only google translate 🙁 )

Mérida was to become our first Mexican colonial city. Our visit was mainly limited to a tour of the town and a little walker through a local market (with super tacos :-)). During the tour of the town, we learned a lot about Spanish colonization, about the time during and after slavery, and the short-term prosperity of the peninsula on the basis of a cactus used to make threads.

In the evening we were lucky with a super delicious restaurant (which was more for Tobi than for Kerstin) and wanted to a concert of a Mexican songwriter / singer. Our guide said he was a much better writer than a singer, but a local celebrity. We remembered this description a bit about Dieter Bohlen, so we could not help laughing when he entered the stage. Because the guy actually had a certain similarity to our Dieter 🙂

The next morning we started at 7:30 in the direction of Bacalar.

Valladolid – Ruins, Ruins and more ruins

(sorry, only google translate 🙁 )

For our third day we had booked a bus to Valladolid to visit the ruins Ek Balam and Chichen Itza.

After we arrived at noon and after a little search also found our hotel, we went directly with the Collectivo to Ek Balam. This time, the whole worked within minutes, because two other passengers were waiting, which also wanted to go in the direction. Ek Balam is a ruin with relatively few tourists, but with many impressive buildings. As you stroll through the buildings, you can guess what a rich culture and abilities the Mayans had before they left the ruins. In the area is also a nice Cenote, which we had for a short time completely for us alone.

The way back was then a bit adventurous, because actually should go back also collectivos. We had already hired to pay a little more, since we were alone, but not even a taxi at the parking lot was a bit surprised. Although several people told us that a Collectivo should come, but also after half an hour was not seen. We then asked a little bit, until the coach of a bus could tell us that probably no Collectivo would drive, but he could take us to the next village, so we can take a bus or a taxi from there. Told, we sat with 30 Portuguese on the bus and talked a little with the mayan-like tour guide. Arrived in this place there was already a Collectivo to Valladolid for 20 pesos ready. Lucky

The next day, we visited the Mayan site of Chichen Itza, one of the largest archaeological sites, including the great pyramid “El Castillo” (one of the 7 worlds) and the largest Mayas ball site so far (who did not know the Mayas ball game yet, The Wikipedia article to the heart). Fortunately, we were very early there, because when we were after about 3 hours, teemed with travel coaches. We do not want to imagine what it looks like in the high season …

Back in Valladolid we bridged the remaining 4 hours until our bus to Merida went off with a cenote right in the city as well as (again ;-)) tacos!

Off to Mexico – first stop: Tulum

(sorry, only google translate 🙁 )

So the weekend was over and we were flying over Atlanta to Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. As we did not want to do the Cancun, which was predominantly frequented by tourists, we sat in the airport directly in a bus to the Tulum 2 hours away with a short stopover in Playa del Carmen. Our hostel was a super interesting variant, we slept not in a room but in a wooden hut with a great ambience. We felt almost like in the middle of the jungle 🙂

Tulum itself is a kind of fishing village, which is famous for its Mayan ruins by the sea and attracts mainly day trips from Cancun. The village itself is nothing overly special, mainly hotels, tour providers and restaurants, but a good base for a few explorations. The next day we wanted to visit the ruins and cenotes (roughly, circular limestone holes filled with fresh water in the ground, where you can swim, snorkel and dive) from Coba about 45min by car. Since we absolutely wanted to try the so-called Collectivos, we went to the stop, only to wait about 1 hour to the next (nobody had said that the things only two times a day). But we arrived and still had plenty of time to climb the 42m second pyramid of the peninsula. Climbing over the ceded and steep steps is rewarded with a brilliant view of the surrounding jungle. Then we grabbed another bike and drove to a 6km distant Cenote, which is almost completely underground and can only be reached by a 2m wide hole over a wooden stairs. Back we went by bus, which did not start at 7 o’clock instead of 6 o’clock, but so slowly we realized that this is probably normal 🙂 In addition, the cost of the day excursion cost about 30 € including all rides and bike rental. Not even bad, right? 🙂

For the next day was the beach of Tulum and a little lazy on the program. We tried to get a glimpse of the ruins, as we were told from several sides that the ruins themselves are not worth a visit and only the location at the sea is exceptional. In the afternoon we went by bike to another, this time overground cenote with turtles 🙂

After Mexico is almost complete new territory for us, we also had to fight a little through the forest at restaurants and different food varieties. Simply put, there are relatively hip restaurants for tourists, with for example burritos or fish. There are also local restaurants – mostly on the plastic chairs – where neither English is spoken nor the map. We sampled both, but we were impressed by the tacos of the local restaurants. Usually for 8 pesos (1 € = 20 pesos) per taco, you can get for 1-2 € the belly with different tacos. Very very delicious