Category Archives: South Island

The last days on the South Island

After we came back from our Abel Tasman trip we planned five more days at the north coast in order to visit some beaches (Kaiteriteri,…), take a boat trip along the Pelorus Sound and do parts of the Queen Charlotte Track before we take the ferry to Wellington. Additionally we wanted to try to sell our car in order to save the money for the ferry and start hitchhiking again on the North Island.

You think that was a big program? Well, nothing of that actually worked out as the autumn finally came over us. When we came back from Abel Tasman the weather was supposed to be rainy for two days. During the week it changed to five ones, why we couldn’t go to the beaches nor the Pelorus Sound. Although we had people who were interested in the car nobody wanted to buy it. Well, if we learned one thing during the travel, then that’s not worth to complain as you can’t do anything about that. That’s why we used the rainy days with some organisational things, writing our blog and a lot of relaxing beside the daily work with Sue. Kerstin became a fan of the Thermomix which is able to do EVERYTHING (except of baking). Beside cooking and baking Kerstin was asked to continue cleaning the house. Tobi finished the video and build a website for Sue’s B&B. We were also invited for a delicious Pizza dinner by two very nice friends of Sue!

As there were no signs that the weather would improve we decided to make the most of two better days. There was at least no rain the following weekend (Saturday) and even sunny (Sunday), why we said good bye to Sue and the Filipinos and drove along the coastal route to Picton and catch the ferry on Sunday. Of course we tried one of the delicious Maori bred at the local Saturday market before we actually drove away!

The quite famous Marlborough Sounds actually consist of three different Sounds. The well-known Queen-Charlotte Sound and the Pelorus and Kenepuru Sounds. As the name implies, the Queen-Charlotte track leads along the sound with the same name. This 3-5 day hiking track is no Great Walk but belongs to the Cape-Reinga to Bluff Walk (so walking from the most northern to the most southern point of NZ :-O ), so it’s definitely an interesting walk. Again we did parts of it and it’s probably the one with the most beautiful landscape we’ve seen so far as it leads over rich green hills along the beautiful coast of the sounds. It’s probably a very good alternative to the Milford Track which is along the Milford Sound but due to its prominence it’s booked out a year in advance. Just have a look on some of the picture, the landscape is typical for New Zealand just stunning.

Once again, we stayed the night in the car on a car park in order to have a look on the Queen-Charlotte Sounds from the opposite side of the walking track the next morning. Then we jumped on the ferry and left the South Island. The ferry is definitely a better choice than taking a plane, as its route follows the Queen Charlotte Sound. So basically one gets a ferry, but also a scenic cruise in one packet. Of course it’s something different than going on a little boat or even a kayak, but we think it’s definitely a good offer for the money. That’s why we enjoyed the 1 ½ hours the ferry needs to leave the sound and the 2 hours cruise through the Cook Strait between the two islands of New Zealand. This strait is well-known for some bad boat accidents, the last one in 1997! We had, however, perfect weather and not any problems. Later we heard that some ferries had to be cancelled the following days because it was too windy, so we finally were lucky with the weather.

We already organized an accommodation for Wellington when we were still in Nelson. Maybe you remember that we mentioned one lift we got while hitchhiking in Twizel who offered us to stay with him in Wellington. So we asked Karl (that was his name actually) if the dates were fine for him but unfortunately he wasn’t at home for this time, but anyway offered us to stay with his wife Claire. We were pretty excited as we didn’t experience this kind of accommodation until then but what waited for us is part of the next post.

Queen Charlotte Track
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Golden Bay and Abel Tasman

One box of cracker and another crazy pass through the mountains later, we were almost back at the west coast. In fact only around 100km beeline apart of the Oparara Bassin, at the west of the north coast of the south island (sorry, I couldn’t resist putting 3 cardinal direction in one sentence 🙂 ), called Golden Bay.

The major highlights are the Wharariki Beach and the Farewell Spit. After a short walk through green hills (which could have been Hobbiton, but weren’t), it took our breath away. An unbelievable, long, wide, beautiful, golden, idyllic AND ALMOST UNPEOPLED beach with planted sandstone rocks on or slightly off-shore. This rocks have pools where seal puppies play and caves you can walk through. A picture tells more than words, so have a look at them. Farewell Spit is a long straight sandy peninsula which marks the western border of Golden Bay. It’s possible to walk on a part of it, what we did for sure, meaning that one walks in wetland at the east side of it. On the other side (only 20 minutes by foot away) you’ll walk back along an endless beach, which just disappears in the horizon. Just breathe taking.

We were already completely happy with the journey, but it should stay as spectacular! We drove to Totaranui in the late afternoon, which is kind of the centre of Abel Tasman, where we wanted to camp. There we saw maybe the most stunning sunset we’ve seen so far. Even though we were in the east, and therefore couldn’t see the actual sunset, the sun produced a red colour directly over the sea crowned by the extreme bright full moon. This together ended up in a crazy colour scheme, from the red golden beach over the dark sea, dark blue horizon with a violet transition to orange clouds, light blue sky and snow white moon. The camera wasn’t able to mirror all these colours but we hope you can guess it.

The next day we walked a part of the coastal track until Separation Point. We got a good impression of the Great Walk, it gets up and down during native forest interrupted by walks along the beach. Just extremely multifaceted. Furthermore, we finally saw a whale! Even a BABY!!! Unfortunately dead and squirmy smelling at the beach :-(((( After around five hours of walking we were back at the car and had a look on the Awaroa Inlet which is infamous for its extreme tides. This part of the coastal track can only be passed 1.5 hours before and 2 hours after low tide. Principally it’s a huge bay, which completely fills up with water during high tide.

In the evening we drove to Waikoropupu Springs, which are proven to have one of the clearest spring waters worldwide. You can see the ground of the lake over a couple of meters crystal clear. The picture can only provide a dim print, but we hope you can imagine it! Afterwards we drove on a DOC campsite again which was on the top of the mountains in the middle of the pass we crossed the other day. The next day we walked from there to the deepest earth hole (Hardwoods Hole) of New Zealand which is 176m deep. Besides that, we slept at the point where the scenes with the wargs (the huge wolf like creatures) were shot. Because we were quite high over the sea level, the night was extremely cold and we got in contact with two Australians who had a funny premier the next day. They saw frost for their first time 🙂

Well, after we adored the earth hole we drove to the southern part of Abel Tasman to accomplish another part of the track. In fact it’s quite similar to the northern part, but wider and with some islands offshore which make it look a bit like the Whitsundays in Australia. Beautiful red golden beaches with turquoise water! We were even able to experience the tides! During our way back to the car we walked along a bay, which wasn’t crossable when we came in the morning and we had to walk over bridges then. Now it was completely out of water and we had a lot of fun in the mudflats 🙂 No wonder that the track is so famous and it will definitely get a spot on the todo-list for the next visit of New Zealand, then hopefully with better weather!

However, our estimation about the bad weather got approved. If there were just some clouds (mainly the first day) above the sun or even a bit of rain, the track lost 80% of its beauty! That’s why we were quite happy that we did the shorter trip with nice weather instead of the 4 day walking track. Afterwards we drove back to Sue to visit the remaining parts of Nelson…

Begrüßung am Parkplatz / Warm welcome at the car park
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Nelson number one!

After we arrived in Nelson we relaxed a bit just because we had a bit time and not too much on the schedule. We wanted to do the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, Golden Bay (both around 2 hours north-west) and some of the beaches and sounds around Picton before we would take the ferry to the North Island. Especially Tobi had a very cool job this time, as Sue (around 70) needed some help with her computer, tablet and smartphone. Additionally, she wanted to produce a video about her Bed and Breakfast and a website. Kerstin should sand the balcony and clean parts of the house. We worked the whole first day to get the second one off and visit Cable Bay. The name is actually quite meaningful, as this is the place where the first oversea cable to New Zealand was connected. After a bit of climbing between cows and sheep to the top of a hill one will get a beautiful view over the coast, Nelson and the green landscape of the north coast. New Zealand like in a picture book.

Besides that, it became a bit tricky. Like already mentioned, we wanted to do the Abel Tasman Track during eastern and we wanted to take 4 days for it. Unfortunately the weather changed and suddenly the last 2 days of our hike should be rainy, which is not the nicest thing for a walk along the coast. That’s why we decided to go on a spontaneous 3-day trip to Golden Bay and Abel Tasman by car to take most of the still nice weather and see as much as possible of both national parks. What exactly, will be part of the next post!

Wir mit den Filippinos und Sue / us with the filippinos and Sue
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From Hokitika back to the east coast

We planned two stops between Hokitika and Nelson. One of them was the Kahurangi National Park, which is famous for its untouched rain forest and the Oparara Bassin. The second one was Kaikoura at the east coast.

So the way went north along the west coast with three short stopovers, namely the Pancake Rocks (which looks like on each other superimposed pancakes), the blowholes directly next to them (which were not working as we were there at low tide and they work better at high tide) and Westport which is the last city 80km apart of the national park. Peter already warned us, but we didn’t believe him completely. These 80km took us OVER TWO HOURS. The road led over a pass again, which is so windy that it’s almost impossible to drive more than 40km/h in average. Fortunately we had crackers with us which helped against the sickness. Due to the countless extreme hilly and windy roads at the west coast of New Zealand we often felt sick, especially the one who doesn’t drive by himself.

After we finally left the pass behind us and it already was quite late we drove directly to the DOC campsite where we wanted to spend the night. Oh well, we didn’t mention that before… The Department of Conservation (DOC) in New Zealand built a lot of campsites in the national parks, which usually consists of a pitch and chemical toilet and sometimes tap water. Not very luxurious but consider the very cheap 6$/person and even good for the environment.

Anyway, the best about the DOC campsites is the often incredibly idyllic location, this one was directly at a river which ends in the sea (with again 10000 sand flies 🙁 ) just to give an example. Here is also the start of the Heaphy Track, one of the Great Walks of New Zealand which leads over the mountains to Golden Bay at the north coast. As far as we know, this is the only track which can be done seasonably by mountain bikes as well. Who thinks about something like that should consider this!

Ok, finally back to the story. After a night in the car we drove further to the national park to see the Oparara Bassin with two caves named Box Canyon and Crazy Paving and in addition we walked to the Oparara Arch and the Moria Gate Arch. The caves were quite small but completely dark which gives them a spooky charm. The Oparara Arch is an enormous kind of bridge of rocks, 200m long, 49m wide and 37m high. The Moria Gate is a smaller cave with a little lake, which unfortunately has nothing to do with the one of the Lord of the Rings.

Directly after that we started to drive to Kaikoura, our next stop, which is 350km away. First we had to cross the already mentioned pass again plus another one between the coasts, why it took us almost 7 hours. We spent two nights in Kaikoura one on a DOC campsite the other one on a “proper” one, just to get a shower and a hot meal. Unfortunately, Kaikoura has only one thing to offer, besidesa really beautiful walk along its peninsula: expensive cruises for whale and dolphin watching. After the girl of the tourist information told us that there are only 7 whales in the moment (during the season they have a lot more different ones coming across) and it’s quite likely not to see even one of them and we already saw some dolphins in Australia, we ended up driving to Nelson directly in the morning of the next day.

On the drive a highlight waited for us! 30km north of Kaikoura there is a baby seal colony! Usually things like that are highly overrated so we didn’t expect a lot, but we got highly surprised! The beach was crowded with seals and their little puppies, so many that it was impossible to count them. Shortly afterwards we did a little walk along a stream which ended at a little waterfall. This was very unspectacular by itself if there wouldn’t have been some of the taller seal puppies playing in the water. Even though we were a bit too early in the season to see a lot of them, we could spot two! After that we drove further to Nelson, to our next HelpX host Sue. But later more about that…

Pancake Rocks
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Hokitika – how sightseeing transformed to a family holiday

When we arrived in Hokitika, dusk already started and as our GPS had some problems finding the address, our search for our next host was a bit longer. After finding the number of the house and knocking at the door of the beautiful house, nothing happened, so we made our way back to the car to call Peter (our host). But then an older man came in our direction, who figured out to be Helen’s (Peter’s wife) dad and told us to just go through the garden. A word, a blow, and we were welcomed by almost 20 kids, Missy a huge Bernard lady and Buddy a blond Border-Colli! It figured out that this evening, there was the Cricket quarter final between New Zealand and South Africa (how could we forget^^) and therefore Helen and Peter invited a few friends inclusive children. (Two of them were originally from South Africa, a fact that brought a bit of excitement into the match. Well, as long as this is possible for Cricket…)

Bethany was definitely the most active one out of the pack of kids and introduced us to all of the other kids. To be honest we have to admit that we forgot most of the names, but it was quite funny that after a Kristen and Kristy, now there was additionally a Kerstin. Then we met the parents, as already mentioned Peter and Helen our hosts, as well as David and his wife from South Africa. The first impression was directly really positive and open-minded and we helped ourselves at the dinner buffet. That evening we mainly chatted to Helen, who is originally from America, but her parents immigrated to New Zealand when she was 7 years old. Her origin is probably the reason why she is not a big fan of Cricket and so she preferred chatting with us (and being amused about the others). Both showed us our accommodation for the next days. Indeed, it wasn’t in their house as supposed, but in a school bus rebuilt as a campervan. HOW COOL IS THIS??? As Peter is a builder, he didn’t only built their house but also rebuilt the bus as a campervan and the result is really impressive.

We said good night quite early and went to our bus, as we were still quite exhausted from hiking. But the next morning, we should experience what a wonderful surrounding Peter and Helen built up. First, they live in a house comparable to a little farm consisting of two dairy cows, a few chickens, ducks, a goat and sheep. Peter works as a builder and Helen does homeschooling of their 4 children Kristen (10), Bethany (8), Daniel (6) and Joshua (5). As we didn’t know this concept before from Germany, we were quite impressed how well-structured it works. The children (mainly Kristen and Bethany, but also Daniel) got lessons in reading, writing and maths supported by didactic videos, working books and of course Helen. In addition, all of them have a certain job with the animals and an own experimenting corner in the vegetable garden. And they get swimming lessons and Kristen even piano lessons. School goes roughly from 9 until 11am, but it is clearly more intense than frontal school (how we know it from Germany) and that’s why we were quite convinced although being sceptic before.

Helen also told us how our work would look like the next couple of days, as she asked us to clean the windows in the house. As the weather wasn’t particularly good we just started and soon got company of the children who wanted to help us. This became quite funny and Tobi had one of the kids alternating on his shoulders who would clean the windows. Actually, that didn’t make it faster, but we had a lot of laughs and as we didn’t have a lot of things planned for the days we didn’t have time problems either. Helen went for swimming lessons with the kids in the afternoon and we drove to the Hokitika Gorge which is famous for its weird turquoise colour. It didn’t blow us away, just because we saw so many of these waters the last weeks, but it is still very impressive. This kind of explains our situation for the next days quite well. Even the very famous Arthurs Pass where we were two days later figured out to be quite unspectacular for us because we saw quite similar things before. That’s why we really enjoyed the time with our host family 🙂 We met them again on our way back from the Gorge when we visited them during their Scottish Country Dance lesson. It looked apparently super funny! After a short visit of the “city” of Hokitika, which is quite famous for producing Jade, and a meet-up with a German friend of Helen, the day was almost over and we drove back home where Helen was waiting for us with a delicious roasted pork. The meals were always extremely delicious and partly self-produced from the lifestyle block (e.g. milk, yoghurt, bred, vegetables and fruits). After sunset Peter drove us in the family van to a glow-worm cave and a lookout over Hokitika. The glow-worm cave was really beautiful and impressive being almost completely surrounded by glow-worms, better than in Fox Glacier.

The next day was bad weather again (which is not very surprising as the west coast gets up to 8m³ rain per year) we mainly occupied ourselves with Helen, the kids and cleaning of the windows (after a short shopping and information trip to the city in the morning). Actually, the cleaning itself could have been done quite quickly, but Helen quite often seduced us for lunch, cookies, coffee or tea including nice chats, something we gratefully accepted! Additionally, the German friend of Helen came over why we had a chat with her as well, while having coffee and cookies. You might have recognized that we were warmly welcomed and integrated in the family what we enjoyed very much.

The same evening, Peter helped us with some planning for the 3-5 days walk through the Abel Tasman Track, we wanted to do during eastern. In return, we could help them setting up an AirBnB profile for their unused guest bedroom. Helen already mentioned her plans to set up a Bed & Breakfast so we told them to try their luck with AirBnB. We could even convince them to list the bus as well. We are 100% sure that will become a great success. If one of you travels through Hokitika, this stop is an absolute must do!

As already mentioned, Arthurs Pass was on the program for the next day and we had absolutely great weather but it didn’t impress us so much either. Don’t get that wrong, the drive over the pass is an adventure by itself and the location of the national park is amazing in the middle of the alps. In addition there is a beautiful waterfall which was worth the drive by itself. We just were a bit bored of the ever same landscape and were curious to explore the north coast why we couldn’t enthuse so much. For people with an addiction for walking Arthurs Pass is definitely a great stop! Back at home we enjoyed a movie night with Captain Hook and a (of course self-made) Pizza. It was also quite funny to watch the kids while watching the quite exciting movie! The evening died away with a chat with Peter and Helen because our last evening did arrive and we started a 3-days trip to Nelson the next morning.

mal wieder eine irre Wasserfarbe / again a crazy coloured water
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The Copland Track: 7 hours walking for 30 minutes in a hot pool

The Copland Track was a warm suggestion of Irene and Pier (let’s remember, that were the two Italians we celebrated Christmas with in Sydney). After a seven hour long walk one reaches a hut which is directly next to natural hot pools. That sounded promising for us why we started our first multi-day hike. At the very beginning we got badly surprised: sand flies! When we were crossing a river these beasty things were everywhere, like clouds around us. Sand flies look like small fruit flies but they are extremely nasty and bite! The result is a bite which itches for 2 weeks. We were quite lucky that we were clothed quite warm because of the cool weather, because in contrast to mosquitos these critters are too small and are not able to stick through clothes. After we finally crossed the river and got a bit away from the water, it became better quickly and we could enjoy our walk. It went up and down through native rain forest and over rivers with funny swing bridges. A really beautiful walk!

17km and 7 hours later we finally arrived and we were positive surprised of the new built two-level hut and only wanted one thing: Relax in the hot pools! A word a blow. Slightly warmer than a bath in bathtub and an unbelievable 360° panoramic view over the snowy mountains. Just a dreamlike situation 🙂 However, we had to keep the head out of the water, because as it is a natural hot spring it’s a small paradise for a lot of bacteria which like to take a hot bath, e.g. amoebae which can cause meningitis. After a while we had to leave the pool, it became just too hot, and we went back to the hut in order to have dinner. There we got a security instruction by the ranger. We also figured out that most of the other 17 people who were in the hut were considerably older than us. The girl in the DOC in Queenstown told us that there were mainly young people, which was obviously completely wrong. But anyway…

As it was already dark and there was nothing to do, we went to bed quite early in order to enjoy the pools again in the morning and get ready for the way back. This time only 5.5 hours later, we arrived at the car and were quite happy that we did the slow way back as well and walked 34km in 2 days. As we could leave most of our valuables in the motel, we first drove there for a little coffee break and talked with our following HelpXers from Germany, but also with Mike and Heather (our hosts) and the British couple. At around 5 o’clock we said good bye and drove to our next hosts in Hokitika, two hours north. A homestay in a Christian home schooling family. As we didn’t know this concept from Germany at all, we were very curious what awaited us, but this is another story…

Copland Track 005
Zu Beginn / At the beginning
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New Zealand’s glaciers: the sad truth of global warming

We arrived at the mentioned motel in Fox Glacier Township around late afternoon. Township is a not very appropriate definition, as it mainly consists of Motels, Hotels, Backpackers and providers for tours on the glaciers. But to be honest, there is not much more to do there anyway. We were welcomed by our British flatmates for the next couple of days, as we were accommodated in the staff house. Claire and Alex are on Working-Holiday in New Zealand and found work in the Motel why they were living in the staff house as well. Claire gave us the tip to drive to a lookout on Fox Glacier what we did for sure. After that we directly drove to the glacier valley and walked up to see it from a closer distance (200m).

Our first impression was „that’s really sad“. Fox- (and also Franz-Josef-) are famous for the fact that they are one of the only glaciers in the world which penetrate natural rain forest. This was true until around 10 years ago as today there is not much left of this penetration. Glacier and rainforest are separated by some kilometres. Actually, we wanted to go on a tour on one of the glaciers, but due to the instable glaciers this is only possible by booking a helicopter. Which makes it expensive, of course. The cheapest alternative is a 10 minute helicopter flight (that is to say, 10 minutes including snow landing and staying on the glacier) for flappy 99$. We found the first too stupid and second too expensive, why we decided to go on a glacier in Switzerland instead. Anyway, one can see the dimension of global warming. Nevertheless, it’s quite impressive to see a glacier from only 200m apart and not to wear particularly warm clothes.

The next day we started working. We had to work three hours a day for accommodation, meals were self-provided. The work was quite simple, however, and Mike and Heather the owner of the Motel were pretty relaxed. The very first day we got to paint the fence in fire red only interrupted by a 30 minute breakfast break. We drove to Franz-Josef-Glacier in the afternoon which was as sad as Fox before. Even though Franz-Josef is slightly more impressive than Fox, just because of its size. Both daily lose ice chunks of the size of a campervan, why you shouldn’t stand at all at their terminal.

The second day in the Motel we learned how to make beds properly, which was apparently quite funny and in the afternoon we walked around Lake Matheson, which is famous for its even and mirroring surface, which was really cool (see the pictures)! After sunset we went to a glowworm cave and indeed we saw a lot of them, so beautiful!

Our time in Fox-Glacier Township was over again and the next day we drove to the start of the copland track, which should become our first really highlight of New Zealand…

Fox Gletscher von Weitem / Fox Glacier from far away
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Milford Sound, Kepler Track and off to the West Coast

There is a little town between Queenstown and Milford Sound called Te Anau which is also the start of another Great Walk, the Kepler Track which leads along the Lake Manapouri. Again, we walked a little part of the walk, just enough to see the lake. The good thing about the Great Walks is, that even though quite big advertised and therefore very well maintained, not too many tourists actually do the walks why it’s relatively quiet and undisturbed. That’s why we sat at the lake for around 30 minutes without seeing any people. Unbelievable idyllic.

We booked a ship cruise for 9am the next day and that’s why we drove a bit in direction of Milford Sound the same evening. There are only around 100km between Te Anau and Milford Sound but one needs at least two hours to drive it excluding any stop for taking pictures. The road leads over the mountains along a pass which obviously takes a lot of time to drive. We spent the night on a camp ground with an unbelievable view on the Milky Way, but there was full moon which destroyed any chance for a good picture.

We decided to take a 9 o’clock ship cruise for two reasons. First it costs only half of the price as a ship cruise during lunchtime. On the other hand we already heard that these ship cruises are far less crowded than the later ones. This was definitely true! There were quite a few people on the ship, but there was enough space to walk around and take pictures (even though most of the waterfalls were dried out because of the too sunny weather). However, we saw some seals, a gold line (as it is a world heritage area, any mining is forbidden) and three active waterfalls (one of them were the world famous Stirling Falls). Milford Sound is part of the Fjordland National Park, and it’s so famous because it is the fjord which is best accessible for tourists. The ship cruise was quite impressive anyway, Mitre Peak with 1692m high (the highest mountain in Milford Sound), green mountains out of the water, some of them with white summits. What a beautiful place in New Zealand.

In the afternoon we made some stops (a lot of lookouts, waterfalls and the Mirror Lake) while driving over Queenstown (where we bought a second pair of sleeping bags because it was extremely cold the night before) to Wanaka. There we spent a second night in the car in order to drive to the West Coast the next day. On the way there were again a lot of little walks, waterfalls, a Blue Pool (which definitely deserves its name) and a wonderful beach (Ship Creek). One highlight of most of these locations is, that they are full of flat sanded stones, which are perfect to construct beautiful little towers with, a fact Tobi directly took advantage of 🙂

At the end of the day, we arrived at our next destination of the program, the Fox Glacier where we found a HelpX Host in a Motel. However, this (kind of sad) story will be part of the next blog…

Start Kepler Track
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Arrowtown: On the track of gold, orks and chutney

After only two hours of driving we arrived in Queenstown and all prejudice we had were immediately approved. It’s an incredible beautiful spot directly at Lake Wakatipu, but unfortunately full of tourists. Full is even slightly understated as 2 million tourists push through the city with only 19,000 citizens every year (5,500 per day). 65% of them are international who mainly arrive at the second and last international airport on the south island besides Christchurch. We directly experienced that, since the road from the south crosses the airport and all traffic is led through a miniature roundabout which obviously caused a traffic hazard of some kilometres.

Slightly deterred about all the tourists we were quite happy that we wouldn’t live in Queenstown itself but in Arrowtown which is around 15km north. As Zsuzsi and Adam raved about our “guest mother”, we were very curious about her and our stay. The first one who welcomed us was Buddy the small Scottish terrier and later Gaye (around 70 years old) who prepared yummy carrot cake for us and a delicious dinner (Mousaka). Even though we already experienced the kindness of Kiwis we were almost out of words…

What followed the next day was even better. Gaye took us with her to the market, where she sells her self-made (and absolutely delicious) chutneys, marmalades, jams, oils, weeds etc. and we helped her setting up the table. She started with this little business after she became pensioner and the thing kind of exploded. She had that much success, that she even sells 80l of chutney to the Hilton Hotel regularly. Of course this is too much work for one single lady and that’s why she searches helpers through HelpX in order to cut the ingredients. That was our main job for our time with her, cutting 10kg of onions and beetroot. Since Gaye didn’t have a fixed schedule, we wanted to do our work on a rainy day. During the market Gaye bought us German bred and sausages, Sauerkraut and Spaetzle and invited us for lunch for a South American sandwich. Just a perfect start for our stay. She told us she wants her visitors to feel like home (in our case Germany) which was pretty easy for us with such a lovely host.

During the market we also drove to the tourist information together with Buddy and made a plan for the next 4 days. We wanted to “climb” the mountain Ben Lomond and also try to find some movie location of “The Lord of the Rings”. As the weather was supposed to be good the next day, we directly did Ben Lomond. The picture with the altitude difference of the track says everything about it. We walked 1400m uphill just to walk them down again. Quite exhausting but rewarded with an awesome 360° view over the other mountains and Lake Wakatipu and it was a good training for our planned muti-day hikes anyway. On the way downhill we made a little detour to the well-known Gondola which brings visitors from 350m to 600m altitude. We saved the money for the journey and either walked down the way. The next day was bad weather so we did all the cutting work we already mentioned and a visit of Arrowtown in the evening. This small village was built during the time of the gold rush and still has the rumour that you might be able to find gold there, which of course brings a lot of tourists into the town who try their luck!

Our last day was filled out with a search for two movie locations of the „The Lord of the Rings”. The first one was the Fangorn forest (which is apparently exactly what it is, a forest…) and Isengard. The second one is quite easy to recognize, even though we couldn’t access the actual location which is on private land. In fact the river which goes from Glenorchy westwards looks like that at a lot of spots! We also did a small part of the Routeburn Track, one of the Great Walks, which is a connection to Milford Sound which is only 100km airway away from Queenstown over the Alps, but you need a 5 hour drive around them. In that case the walk is quite interesting and it’s supposed to be one of the nicest in NZ anyway, why it definitely gets on the TO DO list for the next visit.

And then again, the last day came and as Gaye had a Bridge tournament we took Buddy with us in our room who slept UNDER our blanket and cuddled with us. The next day, we drove a bit back south in order to visit Milford Sound….

Gayes Marktstand / Gaye's table at the market
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Invercargill: The catlins and a weird Friday the 13th

Although it was quite late (3pm) or maybe that’s why, we went on really well. A first driver brought us a bit further out of the city to get a better spot for hitchhiking. We also got quite fast our second driver. This time a woman, who would have picked us up also at our first spot, but first went shopping and then picked us up at our second spot. She drove us around 60km out of town. There we waited until Jeanine picked us up a little bit later, who turned around because of us. We were the first hitchhikers she ever picked up and she figured out to be a perfect lift. First of all, it was really nice to chat to her and she drove us directly to our new couchsurfing hosts in Invercargill. In addition, she offered us to show us around Invercargill and Bluff the day after, what we accepted happily and thanking.

But first we introduced us to our new Couchsurfing hosts Dawn (27 years) and Elijah (30 years) and their children Libby (5 years) and Olli (3 years). So a quite young family and really kind and open-minded. The children enjoy the couchsurfers as well as they are a nice variation in playing.

The next morning, Jeanine picked us up and welcomed us with a package of 3 different sorts of cheese, because her partner works in a cheese factory. Incredibly yummy! Then she drove us to Bluff, the most southern city of New Zealand, start point for the exploration of Stewart Island (what we skipped due to heavy rain on the Island) and famous for its oysters and Blue Pot Fish. After a short walk along the coast, we realized terrified that the new camera had again a dust spot in the middle of the lens. It couldn’t be true! Afterwards we met again Jeanine to have such a Blue Pot Fish & Chips for lunch. We actually wanted to invite her for lunch, but she was too fast and paid for us. After a short trip to a lookout above Bluff, we ate the delicious fish and drove back to the city of Invercargill where we had a coffee together and could finally pay for her. Then, we visited the city museum (which is home to the famous racer of New Zealand “The world’s fastest Indian” and a 100 year old lizard, Tuatara) and made a short walk through the Queen’s Park. In the end Jeanine drove us to a car dealer she knew who wasn’t present unfortunately, so we postponed it to the next day.

In the evening we tried to negotiate with JB-Hifi, how we could swap our camera, but surprisingly even though JB-Hifi is a quite big electronic market in Australia/New Zealand, there is only one shop on the south island, namely in Dunedin. After a longer call with one of the sales managers, we found a solution: JB-Hifi sends us a new camera with a return etiquette to send back the old one. That sounded quite good for us, as we just had to figure out an address for the package, but that we should be able to manage that.

Visiting the Catlins was on the touring program for that day and we rented a car for that. The pictures will hopefully leave a good impression. The highlights are definitely the Cathedral Caves (which were washed out be sea water), some waterfalls (the nicest are definitely the MC Lean Falls) and the spotting of countless even quite active sea lions. Besides that, the road through the Catlins is rich of nature how you’d imagine New Zealand. Green Hills, woody mountains with native forest etc. It’s just extremely idyllic and even not too many tourists since not all tourists go as far south as we did. The only downer was an e-mail of JB-Hifi, saying that we have to send them the broken camera first, before they can send us a new one. This was obviously not very handy in our situation, as we would have been out of a camera for maybe a week. Not very ideal if you’re travelling and always see new things, so we had to find another solution…

So let’s have a look on this weird Friday the 13th:

We were a bit disappointed as all potential hosts in Te Anau (which should become our next stop) declined our requests. But there was one chance left. Zsuzsi and Adam called their former HelpX host in Arrowtown the evening before, just to figure out that the helper who was supposed to stay with her didn’t show up, why she had a free spot and needed helper. So we directly wrote her, but were still waiting for an answer. Additionally, we had to find a solution for the camera and wanted to have a look on a car just to hitchhike to Te Anau afterwards, but somehow it went out completely different.

First we dropped off the rental car for the Catlins and did a trial drive with the other car. It was a Nissan Bluebird, which looked like you would imagine a car for 1300$ (900€). However, it was a trustful dealer (Jeanine took us to him) including Warranty of Fitness and registration which made the offer quite interesting. While driving the car we also got a mail from Arrowtown, saying that we could come the same day and stay for 5 days. We were so happy about it, that we bought the car instantly. So the camera was our last problem to be solved. Obviously exchanging the camera via currier was no option for us and that’s why we tried our luck in a Panasonic Service Centre in Invercargill. The lady there proposed us to return the camera to JB-Hifi in order to get our money back and try to get another one in a shop (Harvey Norman) for the same price in Invercargill. She also offered us to organize the currier for us. After we called JB-Hifi who agreed with that we went to Harvey Norman. We saw the same camera for 399$ (remember, we bought it for 249$). That was obviously too much. That’s why Tobi went to one of the salesman and just asked him if we could get the camera for 250$. Instead of calling us crazy, he had a look in his computer and we were quite surprised when he said “Yep that’s all right”. We just got a discount of 150$ and couldn’t really believe it. Back in the service centre, the lady gave us the money for the camera in cash and all our problems were solved in around three hours. Sometimes everything works out just by itself… 🙂

In the end we just had to do our luggage and say good bye to Dawn and Elijah and continuing our journey to Arrowtown!

Jeanine, unsere nette Fahrerin und wir in Bluff / Jeanine our lovely driver and us at Bluff
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